DU 411 
.24 
Copy 1 



A 



Trip Through 
New Zealand 




Where I Went 

and 

What I Saw 



JOHN W. ZEAGLER 




THE AUTHOR. 



A Trip Through 
New Zealand 



WHERE I WENT AND 
WHA T I SAW 



By 

JOHN W. Z EAGLE R 



DENVER, COLORADO 
1910 






Copyright, 1910, 
By JOHN W. ZEAGLER 



©GI.A268327 



PREFACE 

An introduction . into these pages needs only a begin- 
ning. And the more one examines for self interest, the 
more there is to examine. 

So few take the trouble, and enjoy the pleasure of a 
visit to this little new world (New Zealand). 

Indeed it is a land of wonders — a scene of novelties. 
No other place in the wide world compares with it. There- 
fore the writer takes pleasure in giving to those who> are 
not so fortunate, an insight into this far-away land. And 
nothing but what has actually come before him or trans- 
pired under his observation is written therein. With its 
thirty beautiful prints of places and natives, it cannot 
but prove not only interesting, but, also, enlightening to 
its readers. 



A Trip Through New Zealand 



This question has been put to me many a time since 
my return home. Why did you go to New Zealand? First, 
that I might see things; second, that I might shake hands 
and get acquainted with the world. 

Although not a gifted book-writer, yet it will give me 
satisfaction, and perhaps others, to note a few of the many 
strange incidents we came in contact with while on our 
way to, and in traveling through, that marvelously beauti- 
ful country. 

Leaving Denver, Colorado, October 5, 1909, we spent 
a couple days in Salt Lake Sity, Utah, then on to San 
Francisco by way of Los Angeles (the city of the angels). 
We could not pass it without spending a few days. This 
is one of the most prosperous, thorough-going, all-alive city 
in this, our day, and is spreading like fire on a windy day. 
Its present population is not far from 400,0(30. Then on to 
San Francisco, that most ambitious world-wide known city 
with its 500,000 people. It is up to date and when we stop 
to think of that terrible disaster a few years ago, it seems 
almost impossible that she has increased 100,000 in popula- 
tion since that time. 

Just to show you how much San Francisco is known 
in far-away lands, many times while traveling through 
New Zealand we were asked where we were from. When 
we said America, they did not seem to know, but when we 
told them from San Francisco then they knew where it was. 
Here we spent three days sight-seeing and awaiting our 
steamer to sail for Tahiti. 

On October 17th, at 11 a. m., the steamer Mariposa 
was rigged up and ready to start. She gave three whistles, 
each ten minutes apart, and as the last one sounded she 
cut loose from the wharf, and then only the waving of 
handkerchiefs between friends and loved ones could be 
seen. 



At noon we passed through the Golden Gate and 
were then out on the blue Pacific. After the first day's 
sailing we saw a whale fish, then a few days later quite 
a number of flying fish. This is a small fish six to eight 
inches long; using its fins for wings. They cannot fly 
very far, nor very high. So long as their wings (or fins) 
were wet they could fly, but as soon as the air and sun 
had dried their wings they would drop into the water; 
then nothing else but the sun and the blue sea could be 
seen. 

It would be nothing but justice right here to say a 
word regarding our steamer "Mariposa." Though an old 
ship, she looked new, and is clean and neat as a newly 




The Steamer Mariposa 

married bride. She has been plowing the ocean for over 
25 years, and running on her present route from San 
Francisco to Tahiti for 10 years, making the round trip 
every 36 days, with the same good-natured, genial-hearted 

8 



commander, Captain Hayward. His head is white like 
snow, yet his face is smooth as a babe's. One morning at 
the breakfast table as the conversation drifted upon dates 
and ages, he remarked that at his next birthday he would 
be 66 years old. Then said, "That is young yet." The 
meaning of the word "Mariposa" is butterfly. She is 300 
feet long, carries 3,200 tons, and is well equipped with all 
modern improvements for comfort and safety, including 
her wireless telegraphic office; and no one knows the com- 
fort and satisfaction of the wireless when out thousands of 
miles from home, as well as those on board a ship. 

When we were 2,000 miles from San Francisco we sent 
out a message and it was received. The crew on the 
Mariposa numbers from seventy-five to eighty-five, and no 
coal is used for fuel. This does away with all the smoke 
and dust. Oil is used instead, and it takes 7,000 barrels 
each trip. Her average run each day is 310 to 315 miles. 

When within two days of the Equator it became very 
hot and sultry, and the change for light garments, as light 
as possible, was necessary. Yet it seemed to rain almost 
every day, sometimes heavily. The eighth day at noon 
we crossed the Equator — 2,500 miles from San Francisco — 
and from this on until we landed in Tahiti, and for many 
days after, it was hot. 

On the eleventh day, at 1 p. m., we saw the Island 
Rangarai; we were then 194 miles from Tahiti. This island 
is said to be 40 miles long, quite narrow, low and flat. It 
has but few inhabitants, and is covered with cocoanut 
trees. Sixty miles farther on we saw another island 
(Mackata), noted largely for its phosphate mines and 
works, recently opened up, that are proving very success- 
ful. These two islands, as well as Tahiti and also many 
others near by, are under the French Government. After 
12 days' and nights' sailing we landed at Papeete, the 
capital of Tahiti — 3,671 miles from San Francisco. A short 
distance from the wharf the health officers and doctors 
came on board to examine the health of all the passengers 

9 



before landing. Should there be any sick or deceased they 
would not be allowed to land, but would remain on board 
and be sent back. This seems to be the rule of all passen- 
ger steamers, it matters not at what island or place. 

The population of Tahiti is 6,000 or more. Two-thirds 
of these are natives (or Tahitians), the remainder are 
foreigners and whites. The Tahitians are a brownish- 
yellow race, very large and strong physically, careless and 
shabby in dress and mode of life. The streets and grounds, 
including the houses, are unclean and untidy; yet no one 




Some Tahiti Types 

can look upon Tahiti with its beautiful green foliage of 
ferns and flowers, its lofty cocoanut trees, and all kinds of 
tropical" fruits in abundance, then seeing in the background 
a little farther away the mountains, thousands of feet high, 
without admiring its wondrous beauty and saying, "Oh, 
what a beautiful and lovely sight." 

Nearly all the trees here are fruit trees, cocoanut, 
pineapple, banana, breadfruit, mango, alligator pear, and 

10 



a great many other kinds. The fruit trees are everywhere 
and anywhere. The fruit often drops down everywhere 
along the roads and streets. Among the fruit trees are 
lovely ferns and beautiful flowers. Tahiti could be made 
the most picturesque health resort island knowable to the 
world. It is depressingly hot near the sea, but a little dis- 
tance up the mountain side is pleasant. The natives are 
generally lazy, but fortunately there is an abundance of 
fruit the year round. It rains almost every day. The 
Chinese run nearly all of the stores and business houses 
in Tahiti. Stores and shops of all kinds are opened at 
7 a. m. and closed at 10 a. m. And opened again at 2 p. m. 
and remain open until 7 or 8 p. m. 

Sunday is the great day of the week "Market Day." 
From early morn until 1 o'clock everybody is making their 
way to market to purchase their supplies for the week or 
to get something nice that cannot be gotten any other day. 
Others go to meet friends that they can't see elsewhere, 
so Sunday is the great day of feast for Tahiti. The Market 
is a large, low building or shed in the center of the town, 
covering about one-third of a block and divided into stalls 
or rooms, some large, some small, with walls between 
every alternate one. Under this roof are sold all kinds of 
meats, beef, mutton, pork, fish of all kinds with no scarcity, 
for it is fish that is the principal food. There are all kinds 
of vegetables, pastries, groceries, beads and shells from 
the sea, also fine selections of sea-corals, baskets and 
other fancy ornaments made by the natives. All of the 
different kinds of fruits of the island can be seen there, 
but are not allowed under this roof. So the different par- 
ties grouping around on the outside are seated on the 
ground, and the different fruits placed around them in 
baskets made from the stems and leaves of the trees. 
This basket is given with the purchase. So much for 
Tahiti. 

We were three days awaiting our other steamer, 
"Hauroto," a British steamer. The Mariposa is an Ameri- 

11 



can steamer. The Hauroto is not as large, carries 2,300 
tons and is not as easy sailing and comfortable as the 
Mariposa. But her fare or table supply was just as good 
and her officers and crew were kind and very pleasant. 
She is an old steamer, and is not modern, although built 
very strong and safe. Her passengers were few and a 
number of them were going back to their native land, New 
Zealand. 

After two days' sailing we came to Raratonga, 630 
miles from Tahiti. This is a British island and the Hauroto 
stops here both ways to discharge some of her cargo. As 
there is no harbor at this island we anchored outside, a 
half mile or more from shore and the goods was then 
changed into smaller boats and rowed to shore. While 
there unloading most of the passengers went ashore (not 
as goods) but to see what was to be seen. The surround- 
ings and general beauty of scenery were no better than 
Tahiti, but in cleanliness, the home-like atmosphere and 
sociability of the island there was a remarkable difference, 
not only in the dress of the natives, but in their salutation, 
"good morning.' , Everyone we met gave this salutation, 
which is about the total of their English. Their streets 
were clean. Their nice houses with glass doors and win- 
dows were all painted white and most of them had green 
lawns in front, and a gravel walk from street to steps, 
home-like and attractive. 

Although this island is under the same tropical sun 
and produces the same kind of fruits as Tahiti, there is 
a vast difference between them. It is a much smaller 
island with just a little over one-half the population of 
Tahiti. Passing one of their every-day schools I stepped 
inside to see. It seemed very orderly and was well at- 
tended — with five teachers and 75 or more pupils. Their 
churches were neat and clean with matting on the floor. 
We would have liked to have had more time here. So 
much for Raratonga. 

Our steamer warned us that she was now ready for 

12 



New Zealand, the next stop, 1,800 miles or more. Before 
our steamer had started our attention was called to fish 
playing at the side of the steamer a few feet away. The 
waters seemed alive with all kind of fish, some long, some 
short, some flat, some round, some full of fins, others had 
no fins; they were a sight to see and came to feast upon 
bread or whatever was thrown overboard. The waters at 
this place were 80 to 100 feet deep and so clear that the 
bottom could be easily seen. 

The way fishing is done here and at other islands too 
is this: Two or more go out in a small boat at night with 
a long handled spear and a torch of fire. The fire or light 
attracts the fish and they come close up to the boat. The 
man with the spear is ready to thrust his spear into them 
as soon as they come within reach. The darker the night 
•the more success will be the fisherman or spearman. 

After leaving Raratonga the first few days were not so 
rough, but the last five days' sailing there was (as sailors 
call it) a swell sea. Indeed it was something swelled, 
either the sea or the steamer, the way we were tossed, 
pitched around, up and down, sideways, crossways, and 
every other way imaginable for four or five days. Some- 
times our steamer was on top and at other times the waves 
seemed to be on top. Ploughing faithfully on, reeling and 
staggering like a drunken man, our true Hauroto would 
come again for only a minute, then go down again, and 
at times the wind and the waves seemed about to turn her 
over to be swallowed by the angry waters. Words failed to 
express one's feeling at such a time. In such a dilemma 
there was little difference in one's mind whether we would 
survive or not. Before reaching New Zealand only a very 
few passengers were able to hold up and those few were 
considerably shaky. One lady in particular who had 
traveled extensively, said she had crossed 17 times but 
this one was the worst she ever passed through. True 
our steamer Hauroto is a small and very rough ship, but 

W 



no matter what steamer sails on the waters around the 
coast of New Zealand, it's naturally rough at all times. 

At noon on November 12th we landed safe but sore at 
Wellington, New Zealand, just 26 days from the time we 
boarded the Mariposa at San Francisco. No greater desire 
can come into one's life than to see and touch Mother 
Earth again. It seemed so good. Wellington has a fine 
harbor and ship navigation here is large. The city looks 
beautiful and upon entering the harbor looks a perfect 




The Wharves, Wellington, N. Z. 



picture made real — with its large concrete buildings 4, 5 
and 8 stories at the foot of the hills near the ocean. Then 
just back of these and all around for miles and high up on 
the hillside among the palms, evergreen vines and flowers 
are beautiful homes. Then back of these beautiful homes 
are lofty mountains. Truly the sight here is never for- 
gotten. Many large public buildings and hotels are among 
the homes and up on the hill side. Nature never intended 

14 



a city here, for most of the ground that now constitutes 
the business section was made by robbing the sea. Amidst 
all these disadvantages Wellington, the third largest city 
in New Zealand, has nearly 70,000 people and is growing 
rapidly. 

In going from one street to another up the hillside the 
only way to ascend is by zig-zag steps. Every article used 
in these places and homes must be carried up many flights 
of steps. I walked up 143 steps to go from one street to 




Wellington from the Hills 

another. These steps are 8 to 10 feet wide and serve as 
a street in many places, especially in and through the 
home section. With all this, Wellington is a beautiful 
city. The seat of government of New Zealand is here and 
its Parliamentary Hall and many other large substantial 
government buildings. A great many electric railroad 
lines run across and file through every part of the city and 
out into the suburb 5 and 6 miles. Some of the street 



15 



cars in Wellington have double decks with winding stairs 
on the back end to ascend to the top deck; all street cars 
are run in sections; the fare in each section is an English 
penny or two cents, and no transfers are given. All con- 
ductors on street or railway cars are called guards. All 
the railroads through New Zealand are carefully handled, 
for the government is responsible for any accident. But 
there are seldom any mishaps. Orders in railroad travel- 
ing are strict and well enforced. There is no such a thing 
as being late or behind time in New Zealand, it matters 
not what way one travels. The large steamers along the 
coast, going from city to city, carrying passengers, or the 
railway cars, also the coaches, and all small steamers on 
lakes. All traveling is started on the minute and can be 
depended on to be on time at the other end. I have made 
in my travels through New Zealand a great many different 
changes and connections, by steamer, railroad, coaches and 
walking, and never missed a single connection; they have 
a principle there and they work up to it. 

Building railroads in New Zealand is very difficult and 
expensive on account of its mountainous regions. The 
north islands are so mountainous and rugged that it seems 
almost impossible that a railroad could be built. Tunnel 
after tunnel, no sooner out of one than into another and 
some are very long. We will mention one on the south 
island which is between 6 and 7 miles long. This tunnel 
is between Lyttleton and Christchurch. 

New Zealand is composed of two separate islands, the 
North Island and the South Island. Cook's Strait separates 
the two. The distance between is from 50 to 60 miles. 
There are several small islands included in the dominion, 
some not worthy to be mentioned, and some inhabited. 
These two above mentioned is the New Zealand. The total 
size of both islands is 1,100 miles long and an average of 
150 miles wide with an area of about 100,000 square miles. 
A few years ago the population of New Zealand was about 
1,000,000, including about 40,000 Maoris, or natives. 

16 



The nationality of New Zealand is made up of several 
classes. The English are the leading class, coming from 
England (the Mother Country). Then the Australians, 
next come the Scotch, and they are numerous. The largest 
farming is done by the Scotch people. One of the prettiest 
cities and the fourth largest is the Scotch city, Dunedin. 
Then the Irish have a good hand here; the Chinese in New 
Zealand are numerous and most all fruit and vegetable 
stores and stands are carried on by Chinamen. There are 
quite a good number Americans, but very few Japanese, 
and only one negro that I saw. I do not know how he 
landed for they are not allowed to land in New Zealand. 

New Zealand is the land of scenery and sight-seeing. 
The different wonders can be seen in as small a space 
as anywhere in this wide world. From the rough, rugged 
mountain with its old volcanic craters and its boiling 
water and mud geysers by the hundreds, to the densely 
covered forest on the hills and mountain sides. In less 
than a day's travel one can go from these marvelous 
wonders of Hades to the most beautiful land of ferns and 
flowers that is unexpressible in words. Flowers and lovely 
ferns growing wild, carpeting the land for many miles in 
some sections. Farther on we will mention more of this. 
New Zealand is truly called a land of wonders. For 53 
days I was traveling from the northern part of North 
Island to the southern part of South Island, and I am well 
pleased and compensated for all I passed through. 

While everything is moving on and most men are busy, 
yet there is no rush or run, like some of the older countries 
trying to live 48 hours in 24. The speed of traveling on 
the railroads and mail trains is from 25 to 30 miles per 
hour. The engines and coaches are small and narrow 
gauge, but the trains are very long. The through mail 
train carries 15 or 20 coaches (or carriages as they are 
called). The fare on the railroad is, as I remember, 2 and 
3 cents per mile — two classes, first and second. 

Now, on to Auckland, about 375 miles from Wellington 

17 



— the largest city in New Zealand. It is in the north part 
of the North Island and has a population of over 100,000. 
It has the largest and finest harbor of New Zealand; more 
ships enter and depart than at any other two ports, be- 
cause there are two harbors, one on each side of the city. 
The city is on a narrow neck land at this point, the ocean 
on each side not many miles apart, both good harbors. 
Auckland naturally has a deep water harbor. There is a 
great difference between this city and Wellington, for 
here there is a large territory that is being taken in. 
Although the city is hilly it has not lofty mountains, and 
the streets and buildings are on the hills and valleys alike. 
There are many fine buildings in the city, especially 
churches and schools, which are as fine as in any country 
in the world. The museum and art gallery and the public 
library here are all fine, well stocked and are very interest- 
ing. There are four public parks under the care of the 
city, two small ones of 8 to 10 acres and two large ones 
of several hundred acres. One of these is called "One 
Tree Hill Park," with an exceedingly high hill in the center 
and a natural tree on the top. Two of these are well im- 
proved, and the others are yet in their infancy. 

In my three or four days' ramble in and around Auck- 
land I visited Mt. Eden. This mountain once cast forth 
fire, smoke and melted lava, and it is of great interest for 
one to go down into this old crater's mouth. Nothing 
could stop me going to see it, for the saying through the 
city was, "Go see Mt. Eden." Auckland is a fine city, 
alive and up to date, growing over high hills and small 
mountains so that Mt. Eden will soon be in the middle of 
the city. After visiting all places of interest about here 
we bid adieu to Auckland. 

Next we went to Rotorua, the heart of volcanic activ- 
ities and of hot boiling geysers;, all visitors to New Zealand 
are advised to see the Rotorua district. This is the won- 
derland of all New Zealand;> it takes in six large, notable 
lakes of which each has a history of its own to tell, could 

18 



space be allowed. The town Rotorua is noted far and wide 
for its numerous hot bathing springs and large handsome 
bath houses, surrounded by 10 or 12 acres of Botanical 
gardens which are beautiful. The town has a population 
of 5,500, of which 1,000 are Maoris (or old natives). This 
town is built on the shores of Lake Rotorua, about seven 



' '' - .-. §& mM W. 




W ^ '; 



Guide Maggie 

miles long and five wide. At the head of Lake Rotorua 
is Lake Rotoitie, and both lakes are connected and are 
supplied by a spring that discharges 5,000,000 gallons of 
water daily. It is 6 feet in diameter and 23 feet deep. 
So great is the force of this spring that a piece of coin 



19 



thrown into it will not sink. In and around Rotorua for 
many miles are many hot boiling springs or geysers, also 
mud geysers bubbling and making a loud noise, some dis- 
charging mud, some hot steam and water. These geysers 
are so numerous in some places that one cannot safely 
walk over the ground, and it is always best to go with a 
guide, for the whole land around Rotorua seems to be 
rotten by the extreme heat beneath the earth. 











%_ •p?W*3&&£ 


B*SjfK^5ffi ■• 




|r i i^w 






• ■-■■'■■> *j * ^/&fi£ 


W* *j*r "' ^^^^OE^P^£" " 




HftS> ,; **» ^& v ^v§&» 


«■*«* •_ : JBpof' 




^Klp^ 




1 ^ 






*{9mI^^0£ 






v- X2, 








— »j*M£*"fe 




^ m im ^"m? 




^jfljfj^l 




IHktt 1 





Maori Laundry, Rotorua, N. Z. 

Rotorua district, too, is the heart of the Maori settle- 
ment, and many thousands live here. They love to build 
their houses and even their towns in the midst of hun- 
dreds of boiling water and mud geysers, seeming to 
love these hot places of volcanic activities. They do all 
their cooking and washing at these boiling geysers; each 
family has two geysers or springs, one for cooking and 
one for their washing. They never make any fires for the 
constant heat and steam that rises from these places keep 
them warm all the time. It seems in many places that the 



20 



very earth is on fire, and these are the places where the 
Maori love to live. The Maori (the name is pronounced 
Moury) have two towns of their own; one is joining 
Rotorua, or rather is old Rotorua, called Ohinemutie; the 
other is two miles farther, called Whakarewarewa. 




Maori Woman, Taueru, N. Z. 

The Maoris are of a light brown color, something like 
a new copper coin, a very large race, strong and of 
muscular build. Both sexes are fine looking; the women 
generally are pretty and the young girls are beautiful in 
face and form. They are industrious and honest in all 

21 



their ways and so affectionate and tender-hearted, no dis- 
putes or quarrels among them. When a kind act is done 
to them nothing is too good to give in return and they 
never forget it; they are strictly honest in their word and 
deeds. I will say that I love them all and I love to be 



f\i , «p» 


I 

* 

pT-Ji 

! > 

|||. ; . fa 

ffvr ■ * 

1 -J 


? "1 

HritPl 




W M f M ft Hff 


v;^£:Jt£ 





Maori Girls, Rotorua, N. Z. 

among them. They are not as intelligent as the white 
man, but they cannot be fooled. Their native garment in 
years past was made of two pieces, the under served as a 
shirt, the outer piece, a loose robe, was wrapped around the 
body with a girdle around the waist. These goods were 



22 



made of flax that grows wild over the land and can be seen 
now covering large fields. This is prepared and woven in 
their own way and there is no wear out to it — it lasts for 
years and years. They are clean in all their ways and 
take great pride in their hair._ Now for many years past 




Wairoa Geyser, No. i, Rotorua, N. Z. 

they have been using the same kind of dress as the white 
people of the land. 

Twelve miles from Rotorua is Tikitera. Here are the 
wonderful boiling hot sulphur geysers and mud geysers, 
hundreds of all classes, sizes and colors. The very earth 

23 



seems to be boiling beneath one's feet. One place our 
guide called /'Devil Paradise/' one mud hole here is called 
the "Gate to Hell," another "Eternal Pit," etc. One hour 
is all I wanted here. 

Whakarewarewa was another marvelous place for boil- 
ing geysers, some throwing up hot water 25 to 50 feet high, 
and at certain times they are active or playing. This play- 
ing or casting off at intervals lasts from one-half to three 
minutes; they all play at regular intervals, some every 
three minutes, others five or ten minutes and some every 
twenty minutes. The largest ones don't play so often. 
The guide can tell how soon or how often each geyser 
plays; you can time them by your watch, and they start 
on the second. When not playing they go down low but 
keep up hot steam and boiling a little; then when time is 
up out they burst high in the air, hot steam and boiling 
water, making a frightful rumbling noise. Mud geysers are 
always active, playing from six to twenty-four inches high, 
throwing up boiling mud, some black mud, some red, and 
some white or milky mud. All large water geysers have 
names. The Waiora geyser at this place is the strongest 
in the world, playing every fifteen minutes and throws 
over 100 feet high. No one gets tired seeing such wonder- 
ful things, and each time going over something strange 
can be seen. 

The Maoris build their homes of logs or very heavy 
timber one story high and with the ground floor of hard 
packed earth; all the woodwork in front and around the 
house is handsomely carved, and before the house is built 
the inside walls are carved with some picture, such as 
trees, flowers, birds, dogs, fishes and the Lord or the 
Devil knows what all. Their finest sculpture carvings are 
their Maoris Gods. Most all of the houses have two of 
these gods carved on the front corners. These wooden 
gods are from two to five feet high, although we have seen 
them from ten to fifteen feet high. In their public places 

24 



of gathering I do not believe they worship them. It is 
said it takes a year or more to carve one of these gods. 

The Maori children are great divers in deep water. 
Throw a penny into the water near where they are and 
they will dive and catch it before it touches the bottom. 
The penny is theirs of course. Jumping off bridges twenty- 
five feet above water and turning somersaults is the 







J31L 




1 




1HH ■Mk s \ 








1 


v- N 






.. '■:■ \ 












1 


5 i|ll|: ^ : ?i^|i 






1 >&$Lw s ^ 


WJjp' 


'"''"'•': J 


W"9"X/ ■•: . ''K*3 


^■''i-Ff 




WWHW - 


ll 


J* ;: M 


' ' " ?*>£#^ 


Ifef-t 


iS 


'.''" J i» 


1 


,§ 


ifliiir/ ,. 


ill 


11 


2Sj_M 


jf~ c ^«& ^'Jp .^jifrwE^B 










m^S^^^f^ 't^kh^^^^^: 




jlli 


.••,.> 













Poi Dancers and Carved House, Rotorua, N. Z. 

girl's and boy's fun, and often a group of children gather 
on the public road to sing as coaches and carriages pass. 
Of course the coaches stop, then they hold out their little 
hands saying a haka (song) for a penny. 

This is as good a time as any to say a word about 
"Earthquake Shocks." The very first night in New Zea- 
land, at Wellington, about 10 o'clock I was all alone in my 
room up in the third story of a hotel. I felt first three 
slight shakes; this just startled me. Instantly three more 
very severe, so that the wall reeled back and forth. I 



25 



held with both hands to the chair, while my hair stood on 
end. As soon as I got my little self together again I 
tramped down stairs to see if I were the only one who felt 
something, and behold almost everyone had run out of the 
building into the street. The hotel had to get a new set 
of dishes for breakfast; it was the worst shock for many 
years. Then the second night in Rotorua, I was in bed 
when, about 11 o'clock, I thought someone was carrying 
my bed off. I held on to the bed railing and then knew 




A Haka for a Penny, Rotorua, N. Z. 

what it was; another came a few hours later. Next morn- 
ing nothing was said, neither did I, for such things is a 
common occurrence in Rotorua. Then at Wellington again 
four weeks later the second night on my return back I got 
another good shaking up; thus I thought they were follow- 
ing me around that I may get acclimated or exclimated or 
some kind of mated while in New Zealand. 

Twelve miles from Rotorua is Tikitapu or Blue Lake, 

26 



which is a deep blue color, and the next is Rotokakahi or 
Green Lake; neither has outlet or inlet. One of them is 
100 feet above the other and they are only a stone's throw 
apart. After passing the two lakes we came to the ruins 
of Waiora village caused by the eruption of Tarawera 
volcano, some eight or ten miles away, in June, 1886. We 
get here the idea of the horrors of that fatal night, when 
stones and* mud rained down upon its victims, killing every 
living thing and burying them from four to five feet deep. 
We saw the half buried houses (a few still remain) and 




Tikitapu, the Blue Lake, N. Z. 



the wheels of carts and buggies only partly visible above 
the mud. No grass or vegetation escaped, but the trees 
are beginning to revive now. 

After passing these ruins a short distance our coach 
left us on the banks of another lake called Tarawera. 
Here we launched across to the other shore five miles 
away; while crossing we noticed two ducks so tame (but 
wild) they followed the launch, back and forth every day, 

27 



swimming and flying to keep up. Then sometimes they 
sat near us in the boat, all of this done to get a share of 
the passengers' lunch, and they got it when we landed. 
Here our boatman acted as guide for a half mile walk over 
stones of every description from that volcanic eruption. 
We now came to the waters of Lake Rotomahaua and an 
electric launch was waiting to carry us over. We were 
soon cutting our way over the waters, seven miles, and 
passed near the place where that awful eruption occurred. 




Rotokakahi or Green Lake, N. Z. 

The White Terrace and the Pink Terrace, small villages 
on the side of the lake and close to the eruption, were 
buried eight to ten feet deep with mud, stones and lava. 
Hot steam rises from the water's edge, and all along the 
shore twenty feet high, making a loud rumbling noise, like 
thunder. This action has been going on since the eruption 
of Mount Tarawera. The meaning of Rotomahaua is hot 
water. This lake is boiling hot on one side and pretty 
hot all over. One gets pretty warm crossing a seven-mile 

28 



lake on hot water, too hot to put one's hands in. Listen! 
This lake, which is very deep, was found perfectly dry next 
morning after the eruption, and since then it has been 
gradually filling up every year. The eruption lasted only 
six or eight hours. We safely landed where our guide was 
waiting to take us through the Waiotapu valley, a three- 
mile tramp over hills and up on the side of mountains, in 
and out among the rocks, then around and among the 
Waimangu or black water geysers, where the earth was hot 




White Terrace, New Zealand 

beneath our feet. This place is called the Devil's Frying 
Pan (a very appropriate name). There are boiling hot 
geysers around here of every kind and description, some 
can be heard a half mile away. After passing through 
this valley and up a steep hill side we arrived at the 
Waiotapu Accommodation House for the night. It seemed 
we were in heaven here after coming through a little hell. 
We were as hungry as bears, and had to try hard to keep 
our manners at the table. Afterwards we were not long 

29 



going to bed and dreaming we were flying angels. But 
next morning when we awoke we found ourselves still on 
the earth, and we started out early to see what was to be 
seen, as we were booked here for only half a day. Half 
a mile walk with our guide and we were in earthquake 
flat and surrounded by geysers in every direction. The 
geysers here are very different from those in and around 
Rotorua, most all are boiling mud geysers, varying in size 
and color, and are constantly playing. The formation of 
the grounds (a sight never forgotten) is simply an old 
volcanic crater, once in action. The Devil's Frying Pan 
we passed through yesterday, where once an explosion 
occurred, is now the crater of the explosive volcano. Old 
explosive craters are very numerous all through this dis- 
trict, covering hundreds of square miles. For several 
days' traveling there was nothing but deep lakes, high 
mountains, old volcano explosions with hot steam and 
boiling geysers. This is really the wonderland of all New 
Zealand, and never can be expressed in words or pen. 

Mts. Kakarmea and Angaonga are only a few miles 
away from here, the first has now volcanic seams or scars 
and sometimes steams at the top at early morn. A few 
words more about earthquake flat and what we saw. The 
first thing the guide pointed out was a deep hole among 
the rocks twelve or fifteen feet in diameter at the bottom 
and throwing up boiling mud one to two feet high; this he 
called the Devil's House. Then next a boiling pool or 
lake called Echo Lake, next a level patch of ground honey- 
combed with steam and hot water called Devil's Garden. 
Next the Sulphur Blow Hole, then the Devil's Bridge, the 
Paddle Wheel geyser, then we come to a hot milky pool 
called Skim Milk, and a little farther is Cream Pond, next 
comes the Butter Factory. All these pools are hot and 
white as milk. Then Alum Cliff (almost pure alum), then 
Twin Lakes, Primrose Falls, beautiful White Terrace and 
Champaign Lake. This lake covers about one acre and 
a small shovel of earth thrown in it starts it wildly foam- 

30 



ing and bubbling, until it spreads all over, rising higher 
at the same time. Remember, that geysers are deep holes 
in the ground and are usually in rocky places. These 
holes vary in size from two inches in diameter to twenty- 
five feet and are steaming with boiling water or mud all 
the time at the bottom. 

We left here by coach for Wairakie, 30 miles through 
timber and brush, over high hill, up the sides of steep 
mountains, then down in the valley, crossing rivers, then 
over other rivers, now up again on the mountain side as 
though we would turn over. Always in a fast run to make 
connections at the appointed time. The coach just stop- 
ping every twelve or fifteen miles to change horses which 
is done in a few minutes. We arrived safe in Wairakie 
just in time for supper. Coaching through New Zealand 
is a marvelous wonder; it seems almost impossible that 
roads could be made through such a rough, rugged moun- 
tainous country. Huge rocks are carved out of the moun- 
tain side, and then filled in along the edges of rivers just 
wide enough for a stage road. 

Although very tiresome and rough we prefer traveling 
by coach to any other way. The fare on coaches is 12% 
cents per mile. Wairakie is so lovely and homelike, there 
are several small cottages in a semi-circular shape for 
rooming apartments, also a large cooking room and dining 
room, and an office and smoking room. This completes 
the circle of the building and all inside is green grass and 
flowers. Thirty yards away are two swimming pools and 
several nice bath houses. The hot water comes from the 
boiling geysers a mile away, and is made cooler by running 
into cold water before it reaches the bath houses. This 
little village Wairakie is surrounded by large trees, thick 
bushes and beautiful ferns. A mile walk through the 
green bush, ferns and flowers brought us to the geyser 
valley. Up this valley for a mile are numerous hot water 
and mud geysers, yet amidst all this heat of steam and 

31 



water the bushes are thick, the ferns and grass covers the 
ground, so different from anything we had yet seen. 

Norman Brand, our good-natured guide and a white 
man, explained everything to us nicely; all our other 
guides were Maoris, usually girls who could speak plain 
English. We first come to the Champagne Pool, boiling 
waters and steam and moving about first one place, then an- 
other. Next Wairakie Geyser or Sparkling Waters, the 
Fairy Lighting Pool, the Donkey Engine (throbbing like a 
little engine), the Dragon's Mouth, this geyser our guide 
and the writer went down into six feet and through it 
between its active times which is every six minutes and 
through very hot steam. Next we saw the small Blue 
Lake, clear and hot, this is an old volcanic crater and there 
are many hot mud geysers here too. Next Steam Cliff, then 
the Black Pool, the Eagle's Nest, the Whistling Geyser, 
Twin Pool (which plays every four minutes), the Rock 
Bridge, Pack Horse Geyser (a pack horse once fell in it 
and it was so named), the Funnel Geyser, the Prince of 
Wales' Feathers. The greatest wonder of all here is called 
Steam Hammer. The noise is heard a half mile away, 
shaking the earth near by. This noise sounds like a 
blacksmith at work under the boiling pool of water. 

All geysers have their set time to play or of action; 
some have a much shorter time between playing, while 
others a longer time. We have mentioned only a few of 
the many that we saw here. 

Our next stop was four miles from Wairakie on the 
Waikato river, Aratiatia Falls, a most wonderful sight to 
look upon. The swift current of this large river, when 
confined in a long narrow gorge between high winding 
mountains, is marvelous. The fall of the river here is 300 
feet in a half mile and there are six different falls. An- 
other sight-seeing place is three miles from Wairakie up 
the Waiora Valley where there are fine specimens of hot 
mud pools and geysers. As we wanted to see and get 
acquainted with all places of interest we visited this too. 

32 



The difference of the mud pools and geysers here from all 
the other places is the various colors of the waters, both 
hot and cold. First is the Salmon Colored hot pool, just 
below the Salmon Falls, then the Rainbow (Hot Water 
Falls), the Devil's Eye Glasses, then eleven boiling mud 
pools six to twelve inches apart, Orange Pool, Red Lake 
and Green Lake close together, each about twenty-five feet 
in diameter. Then the Sulphur Hot Mud Tub and the 
Heavenly Twins, two blue pools nearly touching each 
other, clear and steaming but not boiling, another a deep 
green boiling pool. A strange feature here is four pools, 
three of them as hot as water can be made and one very 
cold that is only a foot away. One more we must mention 
before we leave Wairakie, the great steam hole called the 
Devil's Trumpet which is said to be the safety valve for 
this whole volcanic district. If this vent were not here 
Wairakie and district would be blown up. Indeed this is 
a wonder in itself, not a drop of water but all steam and 
no other geyser within three miles. It lies at the base of 
a high mountain. Its mouth is twenty inches in diameter, 
throwing off 180 pounds of steam to the square inch. The 
force of the steam from its mouth will throw a five-gallon 
tin can twenty-five feet in the air — every time it is thrown 
in, its roaring noise is heard a mile away. It really is the 
vent hole for this whole volcanic country. 

We spent three days in and around Wairakie. Every 
thing was so interesting here and our host made things so 
pleasant for us, providing good warm or hot baths at any 
time free. How we loathed to leave Wairakie, the best of 
all our travels. Wm. Graham is not only the owner of the 
hotel and its grounds but the whole district of 3,000 acres, 
including all its wonders are his. 

We left here by coach for Taupo, a small village on 
the shores of Taupo Lake, where we stayed one day. Two 
miles from Taupo is the Spa Hotel, which consists of 
several small apartment houses for sleeping rooms and the 
dining room, a large typical Maori building, handsomely 

33 



carved inside and out. The buildings here are in a semi- 
circle around the prettiest flower garden we ever saw, 
with lovely walks through ferns and vines. Here also are 
several hot swimming pools, one of them 110 degrees hot. 

A quarter of a mile walk from the Spa Hotel is the 
Spa sights, with many more hot geysers, but we will men- 
tion only a few, yet all are worthy of one's attention. 
First the Crow's Nest. This is a large pile of petrified 
sticks, five feet high; in the center of these sticks is a big 
hot water geyser which plays every twenty minutes, 
twenty-five feet high. Next is Sparkling Waters, the Mir- 
row Pool, the Devil's Glory (very angry and hard to get 
to), the Porridge Pots (two dozen boiling mud pools), the 
Witch Geyser or Cunning Pool, then the Paddle Wheel, 
an old volcanic crater making a loud sound like an engine 
throbbing that can be heard for a long distance. 

We left the volcanic districts with their old craters and 
hot geysers and took the steamer Tongarira, a new govern- 
ment steamer, on Lake Taupo. This lake is twenty-five 
miles long, eight miles wide and contains 240 square miles, 
the largest lake in New Zealand. 

After a three and one-half hours' lovely, smooth ride 
we landed at the other end, where is an ideal Maori town, 
Tokaanar. While crossing this lake there is a magnificent 
view of three of the most noted mountains of New Zealand. 
Two are dormant, the other, Ngauruhoe, is now active, 
casting forth sometimes black and sometimes white smoke, 
changeable with melted lava. Its large smoking crater at 
the top can be clearly seen from Lake Taupo, ten to twelve 
miles away, and its elevation is 7,515 feet. 

There are immense high cliffs over 1,000 feet high 
all along the shores of this lake. We found our coach was 
waiting our arrival here, therefore no stop was made in 
Tokaanau. We were soon in the coach and off we went 
over a 44-mile rough, rugged and blinding dusty trip. 
We made three changes of horses, and four horses at each 
change. Up and down the mountain side, crossing rivers 

34 



then in and out among the hills, coming sometimes closer 
to the active volcano, our coach rumbled on for eight and 
one-half hours, landing us in Waioruru, a small railroad 
town. Two hours later we boarded the train for Tamar- 
unui. Four hours on the train and we were in Tamarunui 
at midnight. This is a flourishing town, beautifully located 
on the banks of the Wanganui River. The Wanganui 
River is the Rhine of New Zealand. Tamarunui is the 
head of navigation on the Wanganui. Above this place 
boating is not safe on account of the swift current and 
water falls, but from here down to the town of Wanganui 
large steamers run up and down, a distance of 150 miles. 
We just stopped here long enough for a few cat-naps at 
Tamarunui and we were off at seven next morning to take 
the steamer for Wanganui, down this charming and most 




Normandy Cascade, Wanganui River, N. Z. 

beautiful of rivers. Twenty-four hours before we were 
among the volcanic eruptions and the troublesome regions 
of explosions and boiling geysers everywhere. Now we 
were surrounded on both sides of this clear, beautiful 



35 



river with flowers and ferns. This is the part of New 
Zealand that is called the land of ferns and flowers. In- 
deed this is not a mistake or exaggeration, for we know 
a good thing when we see it. Although the river runs 
very swiftly in places and is very crooked, twisting in all 
directions, the waters are clear and sparkling. The banks 
on either side are high and steep, from 100 to 200 feet 
high. As we go sailing on down the banks on both sides 
are covered with ferns and palms, a thick green foliage. 
There seems no end to ferns, flowers and palms. There 
are millions upon millions of the finest palms and ferns 
that eyes ever looked upon. The whole earth, all the way 
up to the top of those lofty banks are completely covered 
with trees, ferns and palms and a green moss. Some are 
very large trees, giant-like, along the banks and among 
the ferns and palms. It seems the ferns and green moss 
grow out of the solid rocks. These ferns and palms are of 
various sizes, some small, some very tall and large. 

We have vainly attempted to describe here this mag- 
nificent beauty, for no one truly can, for one day down the 
Wanganui River is worth a month ordinary traveling. 
Remember this beautiful scenery is not only for a few 
miles but for nearly a hundred miles on both sides of the 
river. One day's sailing down this beautiful river and we 
were at Pipiriki. This is a small village on the high 
banks, nearly all the entire population being Maoris. At 
Pipiriki are very poor accommodations, as the large ac- 
commodation house there burned down a few months 
before. This was on Saturday and as no steamers or 
boats, railroad cars or coaches move on Sundays in New 
Zealand we had to stay here until Monday. The govern- 
ment of New Zealand owns all railroads, steamers, and 
coaches, and it is their law that there be no running on 
Sunday, unless in cases where such parties are on the 
road, and cannot stop without inconvenience. Notwith- 
standing this little inconvenience we spent Sunday pleas- 
antly, taking in the sights that were to be seen here. 



Monday morning early we left Pipiriki on a larger steamer 
than the one we came down on. The changes are always 
made at this place, the smaller steamer returning back. 
The scenery along the river was still beautiful for a few 
hours, then diminished by the clearing of the land for 
pasturage. 

The interesting feature of the day was a Maori funeral 
to come off somewhere down the river; it is their custom 
whenever they hear of a native's death to gather in great 
crowds and nothing can keep them away. This part of 




Drop Scene, Wanganui River, N. Z. 

the country we were now sailing through is thickly settled 
by the Maoris, so at nearly every crook of the river there 
was a lot of Maoris waiting to get on board, going to the 
funeral, and many stops were made. So there was a great 
many Maoris on board before we got to the place of the 
departed one. Their salutation or custom in meeting each 
other is to shake hands, touch foreheads and rub noses, 
this so-called rub noses consists in putting noses together 
with each and everyone they meet that day, and a good 

37 



many there were saluted in their regular way. After the 
salutation- they would take a seat, sit down and then take 
a cry. Always before our steamer could land they made 
a long pitiful groan of a song which could be heard half a 
mile. Then those on board would answer in the same 
manner. At the place of the funeral there was a large 
number gathered and many flags. We did not stop any 
longer than possible. When they got on shore they put a 
wreath of green leaves on their heads and began singing 
and mourning. 

Their custom at death is a big jubilee, praying, feast- 
ing and dancing for many days, sometimes a whole week. 
They come from far and near and will stay as long as the 
deceased family allows them to stay or they can get some- 
thing to eat. All this display is going on around their 
deceased one, then they turn their attention to the burial. 
Putting all valuables in the grave, or box with them. A 
wreath of green leaves worn around the head signifies 
mourning. The house or home of the deceased is never 
used afterwards, no inducement or money can get a Maori 
to enter the house of a dead Maori; no matter how valuable, 
it is left to decay. I will say that the laws of New Zealand 
now compels them to bury in a few days and in caskets or 
boxes. 

There are as many more mysterious things we could 
tell and just as interesting, but you may be now saying, 
"Oh, that is stretching the blanket.' , No! No! If you 
had been with us you would say the blanket has not been 
unfolded. 

We arrived at Wauganui city late, but safe, just as the 
train was starting out, the train we were booked to go to 
Wellington on. This lateness was due to the Maori funeral. 
Wauganui is a pretty little city of 11,000 inhabitants, sit- 
uated on the banks of the river and five miles from its' 
mouth. The portions of New Zealand around Wauganui 
and all along this river are noted for the great stronghold 
the Maoris had during the war with the English. Their 

38 



bravest fighting was done here and many of their warrick 
or batteries are still to be seen. They love to fight in time 
of war from the highest hills. They are very brave and 
daring and only because their arms were insufficient were 



1 




t 


M 






'■ < 




j:.\ ,, . 


^f;C 


■ 


* 7 s %- ; v : ■ 






V' ■ 1 


'v.Y* ; 


t^\ 




!«fA " .'* 


asm 






: W!^mB 









Maori Chiefs 

they conquered as soon as they were. We left Wauganui 
by railroad for our starting point and seven hours' ride 
through some good farming country brought us back to 
Wellington. 

The North Island is more noted for sight-seeing and 
wonders than the South Island. It has all the volcanic 
explosions and most of the Maoris are here. Fruits of 

39 



nearly every kind are very productive with little or no care 
given. We saw small trees three feet high bent over 
with loads of fruit, viz.: Lemons, figs, peaches, pears, 
apples, apricots, plums, also blackberries and red rasp- 
berries growing wild along hedges and in the woods; the 
strawberries are small. Vegetables of all kinds grow well, 
lettuce, radishes, beets, onions, parsnips, cauliflower, cab- 
bage, turnips, and corn. Turnips are grown largely for 
sheep and cattle feed. The principle industries of the 
North Island are sheep and cattle raising, mostly sheep — 
the finest that can be produced (Marena). The wool is 
six inches long and is sheared once a year. Wherever one 
may look while traveling there are sheep ranging, some- 
times in the valley or the hill sides or higher up the 
mountains and scattered everywhere. Grass grows richly 
all over New Zealand. No trouble for stock to do well 
unless they are too lazy to eat. We never once saw a 
lean animal in New Zealand for there was no occasion. 

Flax is another valuable product of New Zealand, espe- 
cially on the North Island, growing wild, but of recent 
years farmers are cultivating large fields, which gives good 
results. It is cut or harvested every three years; then it 
grows out again from the mother stalk. Farming of grains 
is very poor on the North Island, but sometimes on small 
farms there is a little. Truck farming is largely carried 
on. Lumber is productive on the North Island; trees grow 
to an immense size and in abundance on the hill and moun- 
tain side. The forest has heavy timber: pines, red beech, 
three to five feet in diameter and very tall; the oak grows 
large and in abundance, and there is a thick undergrowth 
beneath. Fish are as plentiful as the mosquito in New 
Jersey. In every stream there are fish, principally trout. 
Meats of every kind are cheap. Vegetarians that travel 
through New Zealand, if not very strong in their ideas, 
will surely backslide before they return. There are no 
snakes or lizards in New Zealand, but rabbits are as thick 
as a dust storm in the city of Denver. I will say more 

40 



about the rabbits later on. Birds are somewhat scarce, 
except the black bird and the English sparrow, the oriole 
and a few others. The New Zealand wingless duck 
(Penguin), without wings or tail, is a strange freak. 
Where the wings should be is a small stub three inches 
long. It walks erect when out of water. There is also a 
New Zealand land bird, smaller than the duck, with neither 
wings or tail, called the Kakapos. It lives among the 
bushes and can run very fast standing erect. There are 
only a few left of these birds and ducks remaining on the 
North Island, but now there is a strict law prohibiting kill- 
ing of them. 

The table fare generally is very good in New Zealand, 
especially on the North Island, the food, well cooked, with 
board and room from 6s. to 10s. per day — this means $1.50 
to $2.50 per day. In all small towns it is 10s. a day. But 
one can pay more if they want to show off, even up to £1 
or $5.00. 

We went to the city of Wellington again, the most 
active hustling town in New Zealand, and expected to take 
in what there was here in a few days. The Botanical 
Gardens, one and one-half miles from the post office, is a 
beautiful spot, made terrace-like on account of the many 
high hills. This park covers more than 100 acres and is 
made of hills and mountains. Flowers and roses of all kinds 
do well here and the garden is nicely laid out with pretty 
walks, winding and twisting in every shape and form. 
These walks are hard and well graveled. This garden is 
but a small improved part of the 100 acres which is 
reserved for a park; the entire park is laid out in walks, 
very hilly and covered with bushes. 

The New Town Park has the only menagerie in New 
Zealand, about one mile out in an opposite direction, and is 
very interesting. Here we saw quite a variety of wild and 
tame animals, many natives of New Zealand. Some are from 
Australia and other countries. The largest lion we ever saw 
was only three years old, and there were three fine large 

41 



ostriches and a Madagascar monkey with a head like a cat 
and bushy tail. The two emus resemble the ostrich, but 
have a longer body, covered with wool instead of feathers. 
A great sea lion is also here and is very tame. Besides these 
there are a great many kinds of birds chirping and singing 
in large cages, the most we saw anywhere in New Zealand. 
There are also kangaroos, ducks, geese and black and 
white swans enjoying themselves in a large winding lake. 
This park is a very large place and as yet unimproved 
excepting a few acres. It is only a few years since any 
interest has been taken in parks in New Zealand. All 
parks are called resorts, so that we may say the prettiest 
resort in Wellington is the Esplanade, a very wide street 
in the center of the city, nearly one mile long. It is 
beautifully parked in the middle with grass, flowers, shrubs 
and trees, with nice walks and dotted all along with com- 
fortable seats. The grounds too around the Parliamentary 
Hall are nicely laid out and parked. The Museum here is 
worth one's time and attention to see. 

Already we had spent three days in visiting places of 
interest here so we left Wellington on the steamer Pateena 
for the South Island. Four hours' run across Cook's Strait 
and we were at Picton. Picton is a small town, yet has a 
nice harbor and is beautifully situated. Here we stopped 
two hours, then steamed off for Nelson, six hours' run, 
and at last we were in Nelson's Harbor three hours before 
daylight. The trip from Wellington here was very pleas- 
ant and enjoyable. 

The town of Nelson is a mile from the harbor, has a 
population of about 10,000. It nestles in a low valley at 
the foot of high mountains all around and has the name 
of being the healthiest place on the South Island, and even 
in New Zealand. It has a more even temperature the year 
around than any other place, and more sunshiny days. 
We were sorry we were booked for but one day here in this 
lovely place. We thus made use of every moment of our 
time, visited the Queen's Garden (10 acres), all nicely 

42 



improved with shade trees, grass and flowers, lovely walks 
and a live stream of water running through it which gives 
the ducks, geese and swans great enjoyment, judging from 
their noise. 




Nelson, N. Z., S. S. Rotoiti Leaving Port 

Nelson and its vicinity is noted for all kinds of fruits; 
every little tree has more fruit than it can hold up, so most 
everyone has their front and back yards in fruit trees. 
We saw seven different kinds of fruit in a small orchard. 
We visited the art gallery and saw some fine pictures, 
then spent a couple of hours climbing up a high hill at the 
edge of the town to see all of the glories around. A zigzag 
path winds all the way up (it was made by the government 
for tourists and visitors) and this was of great assistance 
to me. The sight at the top indeed was well worth the 
climb, being a couple of hundred feet above the highest 
building in the town; another advantage was in being so 
close to town. There on the very top in a small space of 
ground we spent thirty minutes in looking over the town, 

43 



the valley, the hill and even the ocean. We regretted we 
could not stay here longer. We were so high it seemed 
dazzling to look to the depth below. Nelson's people were 
kind and homelike and we could not help loving Nelson. 

Next morning early we took the steamer Aranui, one 
of the finest and largest steamers of New Zealand, for 
Westport. We were advised that there was more to be 
seen and enjoyed by going this coast line route to West- 
port than by coaching. So we went to Westport, 12 hours'' 
run from Nelson, distance by water about 150 miles. West- 




In the Gardens, Nelson, N. Z. 

port is a coal mining town not very large but one of the 
oldest towns in the Dominion. There was nothing of in- 
terest here, so one night was all we cared for here. 

The following morning early we left by coach for 
Reefton, forty-nine miles away. This is one of the routes 
that is so much talked of all over New Zealand and for its 
magnificent scenery called the Buller Gorge route. After 
coaching an hour or more we came to the Buller river, 

44 



where there was a large ferry boat ready and waiting to 
carry us across. All our coachman did was to drive on the 
boat, without moving from his seat, but we passengers had 
to move to our trousers pockets and get a 6p. or 12p. The 
boat crosses over by large pulleys and wires working with 
the current of the river. Soon we drove off and were strik- 
ing the road in good shape again. The road along this route 
is rough, hilly and has many sharp curves, crooked too as 
sin, sometimes going east, next moment west and the next 
somewhere else, dodging and twisting among the rocks, then 




Crossing- the Buller River, N. Z. 



around the corners, across the hills, next through a tunnel 
and underneath overhanging rocks about 100 feet straight 
up. If it were not for such a cool, level-headed coachman 
we could not have reached Reefton. 

The Buller River is a rapid, deep stream that runs 
between high hills on each side. Fifty feet above is the. 
coach road; this crooked road winds in and out along the 

45 



banks of the river, in places large rocks overhanging the 
road and often tunnels are cut through these rocks for 
coaching. Winding and twisting for twenty-five miles with 
high mountains on one side and a rapid, deep river on the 
other, with only room for a coach road between, it is a 




Hawk's Oag, Buller River, N. Z. 

wonder. At every turn something strange could be seen. 
We were so taken up with the beauties around us and the 
wonders we were passing through that we did not see 
danger or feel jolts until we reached Reefton (then it was 
too late). Being nine hours on the road we had changed 

46 



horses three times, on a scorching hot day in midsummer. 

Reefton is an old coal mining town with about 3,000 
population, smaller place than Westport, but of similar 
character (slow and behind the times). We left Reefton* 
next morning by train for Graymouth, fifty miles distant. 
This is a pretty seaport town, nicely located at the foot of 
high mountains with clean wide streets, many large build- 
ings and plenty of activity and prosperity. It is the great 
coal center for the Dominion, has a population of 7,000 to 
8,000 and growing rapidly. Graymouth is the last seaport 
town going south on the west coast, and has a nice deep 
harbor. It is here we saw boats being loaded with coal, a 
train of cars full of coal on the wharf and a crane working 
by electric force with powerful iron hooks. These hooks are 
swung around by a heavy lever and hooked around the car. 
The car full of coal is lifted up off the track or wheels and 
swung over on the boat, then a spring at the bottom of the 
car is touched, a trap door opens and the car is empty in 
a moment. The empty car then is swung back on the 
wheels or carriages again and is ready for another. Every 
three to five minutes a car is unloaded. New Zealand, 
although small and new, is up to date in a great many ways. 

We spent one day in Graymouth, then off by train for 
Hokitica, another seacoast town but there is no harbor and 
no steamers come here. A few years ago when the gold 
excitement was on this was the most flourishing town in 
all New Zealand, 20,000 people or more. Now the excite- 
ment is dead and so is the town, the population being 
reduced to about one-half. But the gold is still plentiful, 
all it requires is push and purse. A few years ago from 
$8.00 to $10.00 per day were simply washed out by water 
poured from high places, washing the earth away leaving 
the gold and sand exposed by the process Americans call 
gold panning. The gold is no less scarce, but deeper and 
harder to get at. The foot hills around Hokitica has mil- 
lions of gold asleep; the trouble is the government has 
everything in its hands. There are no corporations here 

47 



with capital to invest and the common class not able, 
hence no mining for gold in New Zealand. 

Twelve miles by coach from Hokitica we came to 
Lake Kanieri, the prettiest lake in New Zealand and noted 
for its beauty and scenery. It is a clear sheet of water 
five and one-half miles long and two wide, with a beautiful 
natural island covered with ferns at one end of the lake 
called Hans Island. We cross to the other end, on a 
government electric launch. The ride was most charming, 







Lake Kanieri, Island Bay 

not a riffle on the waters. After landing a guide took us 
for a half mile walk through thick woods and among ferns; 
then we came to a lovely waterfall, falling from high lofty 
rocks. Then on our way back we sailed around Hans 
Island. All around this lake is thick foliage and beautiful 
green trees overhanging the edge of the water. Nothing 
could be more beautiful than Lake Kanieri. 

We returned to Hokitica and left next morning early 
for Graymouth in order to catch the train for Otira Gorge. 
Fine scenery all along the line from Graymouth can be 

48 



seen, for the road curves in and out among the mountains 
and every little while a pretty lake is passed, which makes 
it a very enjoyable ride. This- is the terminus of the rail- 
road from Graymouth. On arriving here our coach was 
soon ready to take us through that remarkable gorge to 
Broken River. 

Among the first questions that is put to travelers on 
the South Island is "Did you see and pass through the 
Otira Gorge?" True this route and the Buller Gorge 
(which we had already seen) are the finest and best on 
the South Island. The first twelve miles from Otira was 
a wonder of itself, our coach twisting and curving in every 
direction half way up the mountain side, while fifty feet, 
sometimes a hundred feet, below a large stream dashing 
and foaming over huge boulders, in its swiftness makes a 
deafening noise. Just across this stream are dizzy heights 
of high rugged cliffs (a grand sight). More than once all 
passengers were obliged to walk a mile or two in order 
that the four horses could pull the empty coach to 
the top. Up, up we went, finally reaching the top and 
over the pass called Porters Pass, then down on the other 
side. Just before reaching the top of the range we crossed 
a large stream of water running eastward and a little 
farther on we crossed another stream running westward, 
both near each other. After crossing the range our coach 
passed near some glaciers on the mountain side and we 
also saw the Devil's Punch Bowl with its large waterfall 
and deep pool. A little farther on we crossed the Waima- 
kariri River and for miles saw the beautiful mountain lily 
growing on the side of the road. We yielded to temptation 
and plucked some. 

It is impossible for one to fail to enjoy such a trip 
as this, both in beauties and wonders. We changed horses 
three times and there were three coach loads of passengers. 
The distance is forty-two miles. We arrived in Broken 
River, a small railroad station, just in time to board the 
train for Christchurch. The surroundings at Broken 

49 



River accord with its name. We would feel broken too 
had we to remain there long. Fifty-six miles by rail and 
we were in Christchurch, the metropolis of the South 
Island with its 75,000 people, the second largest city in 
New Zealand. Christchurch is known as the city of the 
plains on account of its level grounds. Although the city 
is nicely laid out with wide straight streets, it is strange 
that almost every crossing of streets have three, five and 
six corners. There are so many principal streets running 
northeast or southwest which gives many sharp corners. 
It is so easy for one to get twisted and tangled in Christ- 
church. There are better street car services here than 
anywhere else for speed and cheerful service. The build- 
ings are large and substantial. The Avon River winds 
along through the city with numbers of pleasure boats 
rowing up and down constantly. The banks on both sides 
are covered with flowers and grass. The Botanical Gardens, 
close to the city, are very pretty, with flowers and roses; 
we never saw as many roses anywhere as here. The 
museum is the best and largest in New Zealand and have 
many old Maori displays. Here is the carcass of the 
largest whale in the world — 87 feet long. Two full days 
can be nicely spent at the museum, which is located in the 
Botanical Gardens. We visited, also, the Hagley and Golf 
Rink Park. From the English Cathedral Church tower 
there was a grand view of the whole city and surrounding 
country. 

Christchurch is a progressive and up-to-date city, grow- 
ing rapidly and are run somewhat on the American style. 
There are many large wool factories just on the outskirts 
of the city. We spent three days here, then off for 
Dunedin by rail, nine and one-half hours' run. The richest 
grain farming district of all New Zealand is around Christ- 
church and all the way on to Dunedin the country is solely 
devoted to fine rich farms. The lands are level and oats, 
wheat, barley, peas and turnips are grown largely. We 

50 



stopped here only for one night, expecting to see more of 
Dunedin on our way hack. 

So early next morn we left Dunedin by rail for Inver- 
cargill and for six or eight hours we were rattling away 
through a rich farming country with lovely farms dotted 
all along the line. Large deep rivers are numerous all 
over New Zealand and many other smaller streams. . There 
is no scarcity of water, notwithstanding there is generally 
plenty of rainfall through the year that is sufficient for 
good crops. There is very little irrigation in New Zealand. 




The General Post and Telegraph Office, etc., Invercargill, N. Z. 

Invercargill is a pretty little city of 15,000 inhabitants, not 
very far from the coast and is located at the extreme 
southern part of New Zealand. It is beautifully laid out 
and the streets run north and south, or east and west and 
are very wide, from 125 to 150 feet. The principal build- 
ings are large and substantial. Much interest is taken in 
beautifying the homes here. Business is on the jump and 
everybody is cheerful. After spending three days here we 

51 



found we were among as kind, sociable people as we ever 
met; they love their city and are there to stay. Free con- 
certs are given on the streets at evenings % by three brass 
bands of twelve to twenty-four pieces each. 

Don't get nervous when we say Invercargill is the only 
city in New Zealand that is strictly temperance and has 
been for two or three years. Music and plays have taken 
the place of Tom and Jerry. 

The Botanical Gardens here are fine and nicely laid out. 
In the midst of the town are several parks or resorts, all 




The Gardens, Invercargill, N. Z. 

nicely kept. There are several pretty monuments in the 
resorts and at the principal crossings. Every town in New 
Zealand has its park or resort grounds and all over these 
grounds are statues of noted persons. We were not long 
in the city before we were advised to see the Water Tower; 
we could not refuse, so we ascended to the top. This tower 
is in the city and so high that when we reached the top 
we were somewhere between the earth and sky and had 

52 



both hands engaged holding on to the iron railing all of the 
time while enjoying the sight of the city below. We could 
see for many miles around, even the bluff five miles away. 
The bluff is a seaport harbor connected with the city by 
rail. We were sorry we had to leave but our time was up. 
From here we were booked for the cold lake district, which 
means traveling through the central part of the South 
Island. The three cold lakes are very large, with beautiful 
scenery. They are wonderfully located and ought to be 
seen by all tourists and visitors traveling -through New 
Zealand. 

From here we were off by rail, a three and one-half 
hours' run, for Lumsden, a small town connects the coach 
and rail lines. Here we took the coach for Lake Mana- 
pouri and Te Anau, fifty-two miles through a thinly settled 
country. The first part of the route was rough and hilly, 
then passed through a lone forsaken flat desert. The rains 
must have been on a vacation, for the dust had a good time 
filling our eyes, nose, mouth and ears, leaving our clothes 
for others to judge. Twelve miles from those two lakes 
the road forks; one goes to Manapouri, the other to Te Anau. 
Here was a coach waiting to take our passengers that were 
going to Manapouri, and as we had taken in Lake Keniera 
(which is said to be similar to Lake Manapouri), we de- 
cided to go on to Te Anau, for our time too was limited. 
Here passing through the last half of our trip we saw more 
rabbits than is lawful to see in one day; all colors, black, 
white and brown; they were bobbing up in every direction. 
I can't think what they live upon as there is no farms or 
farming along the route, yet it is a great range for sheep 
and they are in abundance. We changed horses three 
times. Our coachman on this route * was a jolly, good- 
natured fellow, yet some coachmen are as solemn as a 
Devoree judge. At Lake Te Anau there* is one accom- 
modation house and a few other buildings on the shores 
of the lake, a nice quiet place with fine scenery. The 

53 



beautiful lake, fifty yards in front, with high lofty moun- 
tains on the opposite side of the lake, is a grand view. 

Here we took a government steamer to go to the head 
of the lake, which is forty-two miles long and has three 
long arms or outlets extending way out in the mountains 
eight or ten miles away from the lake, and large enough 
to carry a good sized boat. Our steamer was 100 feet long, 
almost new. The day was fine and the waters calm, just 
lovely sailing. We passed two islands while sailing on the 




On Lake Te Anau, N. Z. 



lake, one of those called Happy Cove. High hills covered 
with green bushes and ferns are on each side. This lake, 
in places, is from 600 to 800 feet deep; two rivers empty 
into it. At noon we were at the head of the lake and also 
at the foot of Mt. McKinzee and Te Anau. Here is a 
small accommodation house; we stopped only one hour and 
then returned to Te Anau. We spent two very enjoyable 
days at Te Anau. Our next was Lake Wakatipu and the 
only way to go is to take coach back to Lumsden. This 

54 



was a dry, dusty trip, a scorching hot day and a crowded 
coach; we were not a bit sorry when we reached Lumsden. 
This coach as well as all coaches are employed by the 
government of New Zealand and carries the mail as well 
as passengers. We boarded the train at Lumsden, a two 
hours' run brought us to Kingston. Kingston is a small 
village at the foot of Lake Wakatipu; here our train 
stopped on the wharf within a few feet of the steamer 




Kingston Wharf, Lake Wakatipu, N. Z. 

which was waiting our arrival for Queenstown. No time 
was spent here in sight-seeing for we were soon upon the 
waters of Lake Wakatipu and sailing for Queenstown, 
twenty-three miles distant. Quite a number of passengers 
were bound for Queenstown. 

We arrived at Queenstown safe but very late, after 
supper hours, but we did not miss our meal, for New 
Zealanders take great pleasure in accommodating. Queens- 
town is known far and near as a "city of the lakes." We 

55 



say it is not a city for city means to us hurry, worry, bustle 
and dust. But it is a sweet, beautiful little town, clean 
and lovely as the heart of nature, nowhere on earth a 
more picturesque spot. There are large buildings and 
many fine hotels, beautiful homes, wide streets and straight 
ones too, reposing as it were at the foot of high lofty 
mountains at its back, and the clear blue waters of Lake 
Wakatipu in front, with a deep harbor and a lovely 
wharf. Indeed it is worthy the name of a town full of 
queens. As we could spend but one night here we planned 
to see more of Queenstown on our way back. At eight 
a. m. next morning we boarded another steamer and were 
off for Glenorchy, twenty-nine miles, to the head of 
Wakatipu. 

This steamer is much larger than the other; the 
government employs two steamers on this lake. Queens- 
town is the central or connecting place, each steamer 
makes its round trips daily. This lake is fifty-three miles 
long and only from one to three wide, a long and narrow, 
deep channel that resembles the letter S. In many places 
the bottom can't be measured as there is no bottom. 
Where it* has been measured it is 1,400 feet; this lake 
covers 114 square miles. Lofty mountains on each side 
from 4,000 to 6,000 feet, with many waterfalls are to be seen 
on the mountain sides; the beautiful green foliage makes 
a delightful scenery. But after leaving Queenstown the 
mountains are still higher and steeper clear down to the 
water's edge, some are 600 to 800 feet high near the lake, 
but far back of these are the Humboldt Ranges, Cosmos 
Peaks, Bald Peaks and others that are still higher and are 
not only tipped, but the tops are covered with snow the 
year around. Remember we were now in the very heart 
of the mountains, each seemingly trying to reach higher 
than the others. Imagine the eye could see nothing but 
immense lofty mountains and a deep long lake with 
numerous large waterfalls and you have a faint glimpse of 
Lake Wakatipu. We sailed past three islands, the -largest 

56 



Pigeon Island. We made a few stops between Queenstown 
and head of lake to discharge some goods and arrived at 
Glenorchy at high noon. It is situated at the head of the 
lake, and is a small place with two hotels and a few 
other buildings; we stopped here for lunch, then took a 
coach for Paradise, a 12-mile ride. We were now among 
large giant trees (red beech), immensely tall and from 
three to five feet in diameter, on either side and for miles 
along the road. These big trees grew very thick and it 
was a lovely sight to ride among them. One of the great- 



KiS^e^SI)$fife ~£ylK^j/'\*'c':j>* 








*?'-•- ■ 


• 












& 




' 


.\- 


*^% y --' ''^P^^Pe*?* 







Bush Road, Paradise, N. Z. 

est features of this trip was the rabbit curio. The roadside 
for miles was alive with rabbits large and small and all 
colors, more numerous than anywhere else — jumping and 
running in every direction. We arrived at Diamond Lake 
and when at the head of this lake were in Paradise. This 
place derives its name from its pleasant surroundings and 
serenity, no noise, no bustle, all is peace and beauty, with 
two accommodation houses. We were not long getting 
acquainted with our genial host, Mr. Aitkins and family. 

57 



The first thing that pops up on arrival at all new places 
is to look out for a room and when satisfied the next 
question is what is here to be seen? "The Garden of 
Eden," yes, surely we would like to visit the garden of 
Eden. A short walk among the tall giant trees and we 
were in the garden. We failed to see the tree that Eve 
plucked the apple from and then gave Adam a bite. Poor 
Adam, it got him into trouble (thus says orthodoxy). We 
wondered if there was as many rabbits around the first 
Eden as there is here, if so, no bark would be left on the 
apple trees. 

Paradise is a lovely, green, fertile valley surrounded 
by high mountains and a couple of hundred yards from the 
hotel is Diamond Lake. There is good fishing (trout), and 
most every evening there is netting for fish. This too we 
were invited to participate in, so next morn early we 
joined our host in the examination and returned with 
enough fish for several meals. 

We tried hard to ascend one of those high mountains 
that looked so close, starting across the woods and after- 
ward climbing cliffs and rocks, over bushes and logs, 
through thickets too rough to talk about, for three hours 
and were well soaked in perspiration and not much nearer 
to the top than when we started. We thought it wise and 
best and return. Here we spent two of our most enjoyable 
days. 

We returned to Queenstown by way of Glenorchy and 
were again in the 1 coach jostling and jolting for Glenorchy, 
or Head of Lake, and arriving there three hours before the 
boat left. So we took a two-mile tramp up the mountain 
side to the Shealite mines and crushing mills. This is 
very valuable ore; every pound of first-class, rough rock is 
worth twenty-five cents. This is the only Shealite mine in 
New Zealand. The ore is used for hardening steel. 

Our time was now up and we were again on Lake 
Wakatipu for Queenstown. After sailing a short while the 
rain began to fall in torrents, the wind blowing about fifty 

58 



miles an hour. We were in a genuine old-fashioned storm, 
the thunder roared, the air was dark and our steamer 
pitched and jumped back, forth, crossways and every way, 
like an unbroken broncho pony. It was impossible for one 
to stand on their feet and quite a number laid flat on the 
floor. We were sitting on a seat and were thrown off on 
the floor; men excited and women screaming. We thought 
that there was no salvation but to rest in the bottom of 
Wakatipu. It lasted about thirty minutes, but seemed 
thirty hours. This was the only time through all our trip 
that we were scared, yes, too scared to pray; but as good 
fortune would have it we all landed safe in Queenstown 
with thankful hearts and the sky was clear and bright as 
though nothing had occurred. Next morning was Christ- 
mas Day and we were greeted "A Merry Xmas" at every 
turn. We first visited the water works of the town. Then 
we enjoyed the Queenstown park, a lovely place of ten to 
fifteen acres on the edge of the lake with lovely flowers, 
trees and a green beautiful lawn, with little lake in the 
center for ducks and geese. Four miles from town is the 
Prankton rapids from the Frankton River, a very pretty 
sight. No one should leave Queenstown without ascending 
the top of Ben Lomond, so our little party was soon formed, 
consisting of three, one Australian, one New Zealander, and 
the other your humble American. With pockets full of lunch 
and a bottle of water, at five next morning we were off; 
the town is at the foot of Ben Lomond and a six-mile 
climb to reach the top by a crooked, zigzag path, steep 
beyond question, hard work but grand scenery. At nine 
o'clock we were standing on the pinnacle of Ben Lomond, 
over 5,700 feet above sea level. There we could see around 
us for 25 to 75 miles, ranges upon ranges of mountains 
like a complete chain as far as the eye could see, some 
below us and some just^ as high, some still higher all 
capped with snow, a sight unsurpassed and never to be 
forgotten. Here we ate our lunch and gathered snow, 
spending forty-five minutes. Now for an easy going down, 

59 



but we were somewhat disappointed as to the easy part, 
when we found out we were losing the skin off our toes 
before we were half way down. At one p. m. we were at 
our hotel, a little sore but wiser, and after a good lunch 
we were all O. K. We made many friends here in our 
three days' stop. 

We said good-bye and were sailing back to Kingston. 
Here our train was ready to take us back to Lumsden, so 
we bid adieu to Lake Wakatipu. 




Rattray St. and Cable Tram, Dunedin, N. Z. 

At Lumsden we changed cars for Dunedin, a few hours' 
run, and we were in Gove, a large town and a great rail- 
road center. Here we gathered a great crowd and our 
train was increased to fifteen coaches and two engines, all 
bound for Dunedin. From Lumsden to Dunedin is an eight 
hours' run, passing through some fine farming country. 
We remained three days in Dunedin. Dunedin has the 
largest and finest, most up-to-date railway station in the 
Dominion, built by the government one year ago. This is a 

60 



Scotch city built and owned by the Scotch and most of the 
population, which is about 60,000, are Scotch. So we too 
tried to be a Scotchman while we were there. Dunedin is 
a seaport town, has a fine harbor and is a great shipping 
port, being the center of the east coast along the South 
Island. 

The city is very hilly, being built in and among the 
mountains and hills. The streets are wide and well kept; 
more of them are paved than in any town in New Zealand. 





i v mk to^M^^lwwg, rtDw,^i 








^MmMw%^ : '^W. 1- A !■" l 








^^mt*> : &£$&> ; 


- S3l 


Jps**^^ 


A; ' : ' : " ■'■■■:'> : v"'.\- ; :;-'" r --". <■■ ■ ■ ,;■ .;. , -.,;: 






<* 








L- 


'■ """■'■ ■' '..,: • '•■"■'■-. fe^;:^.- 


■■•■■'■ ■' " 


* 



Steamers Waikare, Moeraki, Victoria, Marama and Invercargill 
at Dunedin, N. Z. 

Port Chalmers, Dunedin, is one of the finest and prettiest 
ports on the New Zealand coast. 

The car service here is good and swift. A visit at the 
museum for several hours was very enjoyable; many 
strange old relics are here; the art gallery is a fine new 
building close to the railroad station and a good assortment 
of choice paintings and pictures. A free public library has 
just been erected in the heart of the city, and besides the 

61 



above named places there is a large hall called the Early 
Settlers Hall, where are kept the old historical records of 
the first settlers — their names and relics that they brought 
over with them. The oldest sewing machine, 152 years old, 
that came from Scotland, is here; the first piano that was 
made in New Zealand, also the first judge's chair that the 
first judge of New Zealand sat in at court; also here are old 
tables, desks, bedsteads, and old settees 150 years old, that 
came from Scotland, and many other old relics, all of which 
were very interesting. The great Queen's drive runs along 
on the highest hills encircling the city. This is a lovely 
sight; for several miles we can overlook the whole city and 
see so much at one time. Queen's Park, in the very heart 
of the city, was once a cemetery in the earlier days, but 
now a nice park. Our visit to the Botanical Gardens was the 
most interesting of all; it comprises about ten acres, most 
beautifully laid out with choice flowers, shrubs and trees, 
large mammoth oaks three feet in diameter with limbs 
measuring forty-five feet long, also the white fir pine of 
the same size, the largest and finest trees . we ever saw. 
Our last stroll here was at Ocean Beach to see the children 
play and bathe in the ocean. 

We left Dunedin on the last day of 1909 for Lyttleton 
by rail. On our arrival the steamer Mararoa was ready to 
take us back to Wellington. This steamer is the finest 
that sails along the coast of New Zealand and we had a 
delightful twelve hours' voyage. This steamer is similar 
to our Mariposa. A large crowd was on board, all cheerful 
and happy, singing and playing the piano, and watching to 
see the New Year, 1910, come in. We had a very pleasant 
time. 

Next morning at six a. m. (New Year's Day) we were 
back in Wellington, and three days later we embarked for 
our native .land, America. While this time is passing we 
were still taking in sights not yet seen. The very last 
place of interest we visited in New Zealand was Island 
Bay, a delightful resort. 

62 



New Zealand, as a whole, is a pretty good country. 
The government has, as we already said, everything in 
hands; their laws we have learned are very good laws and 
well enforced. All saloons close at ten p. m., after that if 
caught open are fined $25.00 and anyone caught on the 
saloon grounds after hours is fined $25.00 also. 

New Zealand is a fine country for fruit as can be found 
anywhere, and without much care, vegetables of all kinds 




island Bay, Wellington, N. Z. 

grow in abundance, but few water melons. The wages of 
different kind of work including common work are about 
the same as America, but all mechanics get cheap wages. 
New Zealand is up to date with its school and churches, as 
large and fine as in any other land. The churches are 
numerous and largely attended; the Catholic leads, next 
Presbyterian and then all other denominations are moving 
forward. The Salvation Army is coming to the front fast. 
The Scientists are yet in their infancy, but it must and will 
flourish. The sanitary conditions is as good as can be found 

63 



anywhere in the world, especially in the cities and towns 
of any size. Some of our largest American cities with 
boasted wealth and intelligence are far behind little New 
Zealand in this respect. A more accommodating people is 
hard to find than in New Zealand, and as a general thing 
honesty and truth prevails. 

Most all rivers and streams of water in New Zealnd 
are deep and the lakes are numerous; there is good fishing 
in nearly all, trout principally. The government of New 
Zealand controls everything, while all of their laws are 
good and helpful to the common people. But we think the 
land laws are too stringent but the last session of Parlia- 
ment loosens these laws up some. 

Our total mileage of water traveling in New Zealand 
was 860 miles, viz.: 250 on lakes, 150 on Wanganui River 
and 460 along the ocean coast. We sailed on five lakes on 
North Island, three on South Island, rode on five electric 
boats, three small steamers and three large ones. Travel- 
ing on water is a pleasure in New Zealand. All boats are 
well equipped and comfortable. One of their ways or rules 
that seems strange to us from America was that all travel- 
ing, either walking or riding, is kept on the left hand side 
(instead of the right) ; even the electric cars run to the 
left. We thought at first that everybody was left-handed, 
but soon learned to be left handed also, after having a 
close call from being run over. 

All fire hydrants throughout the cities and towns are 
out in the streets and under the ground covered with iron 
lids. In using them a crank is turned; this lifts the pipe 
above the surface and turns on the water at the same 
time. All restaurants are called refreshments, all toy and 
fancy stores are called drapery stores; all shoemakers and 
shops are bootmakers and shops; all lunch rooms are 
called tea rooms; all express wagons called carriers; all 
saloons are called bars; all smoking rooms called saloons; 
parks are called reserves; bakeries often called pasteries; 
theaters called dress circles and stalls. 

64 



Our inquiries and questions were many in New Zea- 
land, perhaps sometimes a burden to our guide, but we 
were there to learn and see. I have been talking of things 
and sights that I saw. Now what did we not see in New 
Zealand? We never saw a girl chewing gum, neither did 
we see a piece of gum to chew. We never saw or beard 
of any accident happening while we were there, we never 
heard or read of prize fighting, nor read of divorce cases, 
nor of an arrest; not once did we see the police wagon on 
the street, neither did we see anyone run to catch a car 
and then get left, and we must mention one thing more, 
it is this, we are under many obligations to Thomas Cook 
& Son, tourist agents of New Zealand, for their valuable 
assistance in all our travels there. Had it not been for 
their correct knowledge of places to go and things to see 
we never would have seen and learned what we did in so 
shoi;t a time. I am so glad I went to them for information 
and instruction, I found them as ready and willing to give 
and assist as I was to ask and receive. I furthermore say 
their statements of places and things are correct. Every 
nook and corner they are acquainted with and are honest 
and reliable; they can be found at their offices in most all 
of the principal cities of New Zealand. They may never 
see or hear of these remarks, but I advise anyone if they 
ever visit New Zealand and want to see what there is and 
to learn something of the country they had better go first 
and see Thos. Cook & Son. 

Now our time came to bid adieu to New Zealand soil 
with all its kind associations and pleasant memories never 
to be forgotten. Ffty-three days in New Zealand was well 
spent and richly enjoyed. At one p. m. January 4th, 1910, 
we left Wellington on the steamer Hauroto to return to our 
native land, returning the same way we went. The 
second or third day after leaving Wellington we gained 
the day that we lost in coming over. This change of time 
is in crossing the latitude line. To make it plainer will 
say two or three days' traveling before getting to New 

65 



Zealand we dropped one day off, making six days in that 
week, but when we returned that day was collected back, 
making eight days in that week. 

The water between New Zealand and Raratonga was 
not so rough, making the return trip much pleasanter than 
the beginning of the voyage. We had few passengers on 
board. On arriving at Raratonga we stopped four to six 
hours for discharging goods and again we visited the island, 
enjoyed seeing the trees loaded with all kinds of rich and 
delicious fruits. It was about the best time of the season, 
and we thought it quite a treat to be among the tropical 
fruits and look up at them, ripe and mellow, hanging on the 
trees. Here we gathered a few more passengers (natives) 
and through their sweet music the hours passed by pleas- 
antly until we reached Tahiti. These islanders are fond 
of music and nearly every one can play the cordial. 

Arriving at- Tahiti we again changed to the American 
steamer Mariposa, but spent the night in Papeete, capital 
of Tahiti. Next morn at eleven o'clock we started for 
San Francisco. The principal fruits of these islands are 
cocoanuts, pineapples, bananas, oranges, mangoes, bread 
fruit, alligator pears, grape fruit and several more I do not 
remember. 

We were ten days sailing from New Zealand to Tahiti. 
Then we were off for San Francisco", another long thirteen 
days of rocking and rolling, tossing up and down, back and 
forth and every way thinkable. No land to be seen, no 
vessels to pass, nothing but the sun and sky and the high 
tossing billows. There were not very many first-class pas- 
sengers, but quite a number of steerage passengers. The 
weather was much cooler on our return trip when we 
crossed the equator, with heavy showers, also strong head 
winds. Most every day we had fine sailing until about sixty 
hours before we entered the Golden Gate, when the high 
winds were fierce with heavy showers of rain. Proud 
Mariposa, though pretty large, was dashed to and fro as 
though she was a feather ; the waves were very high and 

66 



it seems they would cover her up. Sometimes we were on 
the top of a hill, next moment down in a valley and the 
billows high above us. Then they would come sideways 
until it seemed that we would almost tip over and at such 
times we had all we could do to hold on lest our seat would 
slide from under us; this continued for three nights and 
two days and was said by some of the crew to be a pretty 
good storm. We could scarcely sit or stand anywhere 
except by holding on, even in bed and at meals held, on to 
our plate with one hand and fed ourselves with the other. 
By managing that way we did not starve, although at such 
times as these few passengers have any desire to eat. We 
were so shaken up and worn out that we could scarcely 
think a pleasant thought. Really the waves sometimes 
would come on top of the deck. Yes, it was the sweetest 
thing to us to get on land again, but before landing we 
were anchored a mile or more from shore to go through 
three rigid examinations. First, the health officers and 
doctors, next came . the foreign examination with a whole 
lot of questions including personal matters even regarding 
one's grandmother. Then, the third, as we landed on the 
wharf, all our baggage was searched through to see how 
much foreign goods we had. Here I came near losing the 
few oranges I had with me. 

We spent , a few days in San Francisco, resting and 
coaxing back an appetite. Then we headed for Denver by 
way of Sacramento, where we spent a few pleasant hours 
seeing a little of the capital city of California. This is a 
very pleasant and beautiful place and considered a good 
business center; it is growing steadily. Yet there is no 
hurry and flurry like in San Francisco. The city is nicely 
laid out and the grounds tastily kept, especially those around 
the capitol building, which includes five or six blocks in the 
heart of the city. It is the prettiest we saw anywhere in 
California. On these grounds are said to be most every 
kind of tree in the known world. We wished we had more 
time to spend here, but were off for Denver by way of 

67 



Ogden. Two days' and ten hours' ride from Sacramento 
and we were at home in Denver, just three months and 
twenty-five days from the time we left until we returned. 
Our closing words are these: We are glad we made 
the trip and also glad too of experiences we passed through. 
While many of them were pleasant and joyful, there were 
many rough and unpleasant, but all were enjoyed alike. 
As a whole we are well repaid, far more so than we had 
any idea of in seeing things and gaining knowledge of 
other parts of the world, and we hope to see more of the 
world in the future. 



THE END. 



68 



mu m ,|if 



t^'V:- 1 



■'■■•.■'■.■•■-.-, ■■■■■•' -. v 



One copy del. to Cat. Div. 
JUL 15 »>¥ 



